(Reuters.com) - The first in a series of excerpted sections from the "Culture Shock!" guidebook seeks to boil down Parisian café culture.

Talking philosophy and politics and watching the world go by (both the pedestrians and the traffic) are the two favourite pastimes in France.

As much a part of the culture as the English pub or the Chinese teahouse, in French cafes, people can sit and talk or read for hours, and they are welcome to do so. No respectable café owner would consider disturbing the long, peaceful perusals of a client, even one who just buys a single espresso.

You will find the "patron" of the Parisian café quite hospitable, except during the busy lunch hours. At other times, he will often engage you in conversation, once he is confident you share a common language.

He might pull in his ‘regulars' lined up at "le zinc" - the bar - where drinks are cheaper. If you are alone, you will sometimes get better or faster service and you will be more quickly incorporated into the conversation at the bar.

You don't take an order from the zinc to a table without paying the extra fee. You won't be expected to pay until you leave, though your waiter may leave a piece of paper under your plate setting to keep track of what you have ordered. From that he will make your final "addition," when you ask.

CAFÉ, THÉ, OR...

The French normally drink their coffee in little cups, very strongly brewed and black. This can be browned with a little milk and called a "noisette," or doubled by adding an equal amount of hot milk and called a crème. It can also be watered down and served in a large cup as an "allongé."

If these powerful little brews are too much for you, try a citron pressé, freshly squeezed lemon juice to which you add sugar and water to suit your taste, or any number of non-alcoholic "sirops," flavoured concentrates (already sugared) you dilute with water. Otherwise, try the lovely herbal teas called infusions that come in many different beneficial flavours.

À MIDI

At lunchtimes, don't expect ‘fast food' service, even in a café. In the heat of things, waiters will speak quickly, often too busy to find you a menu (the day's specials will be written on a chalkboard). You might have to wait for "l'addition" (the bill).

To get that bill, just catch your waiter's eye and discreetly pretend you are writing on your palm. If you really want his attention, say politely "s'il vous plaît" and raise your hand slightly as you catch his eye.

French cafés serve simple hot lunches during the business week and every table will be taken. This noontime respite used to take two hours, though most Parisians are in more of a hurry nowadays.

The food menu will not be lengthy: "Un plat varié" of vegetables in season with a piece of ham; an entrecote steak with pommes frites; a couple of "salads" and one or two tarts for dessert. Get a glass of wine and a "carafe d'eau" - a pitcher of water - which is free. Outside of lunch time, mainly sandwiches or hot croque-monsieurs will be available, along with salad, ice cream and any tarts left over from lunch time.

The relaxed atmosphere of a French café can dispel the chill of loneliness in a new country far better than TV can. You will find exceptions to the generally friendly scene in eating establishments catering to mobs of tourists racing through a meal, but the French try hard to maintain their standard of quality service.

(Editing by Peter Myers)

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